PJ SS2’s Ini KARI Lah brings a curry ‘laksa’ that’s much more than just spiciness | Malay Mail

PETALING JAYA, July 23 – This is Ini KARI Lah, newly opened in SS2 and with a few signs of authenticity: A row of gift flowers, still in pristine condition, line the front of the shop.

Inside, everyone is clamoring for something new. Bright, white ceiling lights, blasting air conditioning, white tables and chairs make for a slightly dazzling but quite comfortable setting.

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Find an artfully designed storefront in the SS2 Cheow Yang area.

But underneath all that new stuff, there’s some serious experience.

Diners who have visited Restoran Tien Tien Lai in Ara Damansara may have noticed that the curry laksa stall is gone.

Apple Kam, 44, is the woman behind that curry laksaoperated there for years before a chance reunion with a former acquaintance (decades in the making, I might add) changed things.

The encounter would develop into plans to open their own place, which was later realized with two other partners.

Here, his signature curry laksa is at the forefront of business, while you can find it too pan mee here courtesy of her other two partners.

Sipping and digging into delicious curry laksa to a soundtrack of K-pop girl bands TWICE and Momoland is quite the experience, and I’m not complaining.

But we’re here to focus on the curry laksaeven the restraint within Hype Boy of K-pop girl group NewJeans echoed around the room like a worm in your head.

Like any good curry laksaa bowl at Ini KARI Lah is all about the curry itself, the light pastel orange color, the thick, heavy creamy consistency, and the spice-filled curry paste with a million and one things going on.

Less fiery red than most, this curry is characterized by a large amount of santan and gets much of its sweet and savory flavor from a complex spice base.

Coconut milk is very rich, resulting in a lighter curry appearance and a milder heat level.

That said, this is not a light curry.

Sweet, savory and incredibly complex, the almost grainy texture reveals plenty of fresh spices such as respect and lemongrass that is mixed to make a spice base.

The sweeter, less spicy flavor of the curry, was a deliberate choice on Kam’s part.

He wants everyone to enjoy his curry laksawith young children and adults alike, so he has been tweaking and perfecting the curry paste for years to make it less spicy, but still rich and intense in flavor.

His mother’s original curry recipe, he now makes it from scratch every other day, using the freshest possible ingredients.

An order of Curry Mee with Siew Yoke and accompanying fresh cockles costs RM18.50, with toppings including fried fu chukfish cakes, tofu poklong beans, bean sprouts and the eponymous siew joke and fatty, juicy six.

The steamed chicken in curry laksa here is a smooth and slippery delight that melts in the mouth.

A personal favorite of mine, the Curry Mee with Steamed Chicken (RM15.50), called out to me when I saw it on the menu.

Except for a few pieces of steamed chicken in lieu of siew joke and no sixthe same base topping is found here, all of which invite you to dip, swish and soak them in curry like Oreos in milk.

Better yet, dip it in a spicier and slightly saltier chilli paste for a cascade of bold intensity on the tongue.

Try dipping some toppings in chilli paste here

Spicy and slightly salty, the chilli paste here features bits of dried prawns for a kick of umami.

This is far from the cheapest bowl of curry laksa there, but you can enjoy it in a more comfortable environment than usual.

But it’s also a delicately balanced bowl of curry laksa.

Like an elaborate performance, each component stands out as it plays its role to perfection: Fragrant, flavorful and creamy curry with springy yellow noodles, crunchy bean sprouts and long beans, chewy and curry-soaked fried fu chuk and tofu pok.

What’s not to like? Toss in some crispy, salty siew joke or some smooth, greasy steamed chicken. This is an ensemble performance well worth the price of admission.

This is CURRY

125, Jalan SS 2/6, SS2 (Cheow Yang Place), Petaling Jaya, Selangor

Open Friday to Wednesday, 10:30am-8:30pm

(temporary hours due to staff shortage. Normal opening hours are 9:30am-8:30pm)

Tel: 03-7490 0578/ 010-823 3415

* Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.


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